Welsh Highland Railway First Class Review: A Steam Train Journey Through Snowdonia
Article by Will Fairclough, Travel Consultant for UDA
If you’re planning a self-drive holiday and want the ease of a fully prepared itinerary from Ultimate Driving Adventures, expect a journey filled with memorable attractions and experiences. One standout is the Welsh Highland Railway, a beautifully restored narrow-gauge line that winds through some of Wales’s most dramatic scenery. It’s an ideal stop on any of our Wales self-drive holidays, offering a timeless steam-train experience, stunning views of mountains, forests and coastline, and a charming glimpse into the region’s heritage.
The Welsh Highland Railway is one of the great scenic train journeys in North Wales, running between Porthmadog and Caernarfon through Snowdonia a myriad of mountain scenery, rivers, woodland, farmland and some beautiful Welsh landscapes.
This is not a fast day out. It is a slow, relaxed, steam train journey through Snowdonia, with enough old-world charm to make you feel like you have stepped into another era. Especially if you are travelling first class, where the polished wood, comfy seats and leather window straps do a very good job of making you feel rather important.
I was travelling from Porthmadog Harbour Station to Caernarfon, with breakfast at Spooner’s Café beforehand, a picnic basket for the return journey, and a few hours to explore Caernarfon Castle and the town walls before heading back.
It sounded simple enough. Train. Castle. Picnic. Home.
Obviously, I managed to add a dying phone, no cash, a haircut, a smoky first class carriage, and a seagull poo-covered pub tables into the mix.
Porthmadog Station
Arriving At Porthmadog Harbour Station
When you arrive at Porthmadog Harbour Station for the Welsh Highland Railway, you are directed to the overflow car park unless you have a blue badge. The car park is on the other side of the river, around a five-minute walk away from the station, but there is plenty of parking and it is well signposted.
I arrived nice and early at 9 o’clock, which gave me enough time to get settled before the train journey to Caernarfon. First stop was Spooner’s Café for a cooked breakfast and my usual decaf flat white, which was very nice. The breakfast was delicious and set me up nicely for the day ahead.
After breakfast, I collected my picnic basket and travel guide, then made my way onto the platform. The steam locomotive Harbourmaster was primed and ready for its passengers, sitting there looking every bit the part.
There is something about a steam train that still makes people stop and look. It doesn’t matter how old you are. The whistle, the steam, the polished carriages, the pace of it all. It gets your attention before you have even left the station.
First Class On The Welsh Highland Railway
I made my way to the first class carriage, took my seat and presented my ticket to the ticketmaster. The first class carriages are elegant and beautifully finished, with shiny wood panelling, low comfortable seats and that quiet sense of occasion you get from travelling in something that has been beautifully cared for.
It does whisk you back to a bygone era.
What a time to have been alive.
Apart from the scurvy.
The seats were extremely comfy, the carriage was spotless, and the whole thing felt very civilised. I did feel genuinely privileged to be riding first class on a heritage steam railway through North Wales.
The onboard host was most welcoming, and as we set off from Porthmadog, steam bellowed across the platform drifting past the carriages as onlookers stood smiling, waving and taking photos. The engine began its steady chug, that unmistakable old railway rhythm, slow and powerful as we eased away from the station. Then came the whistle from the driver, echoing across the harbour, and suddenly it all felt delightfully exciting. We were leaving Porthmadog behind and heading towards the mountains.
The Welsh Highland Railway meanders through fields, valleys, ancient woods, streams, rivers and mountains, which makes it one of the best scenic train journeys in Snowdonia if you want to see the landscape without hiking up it.
Which Side Should You Sit On?
One of the first things I asked was which side of the train was best for the outward and return journeys. Both sides offer wonderful views, but if you had to choose, the advice was to sit on the left-hand side for both journeys.
I chose the right. Well, I chose both actually. My carriage was empty. I’m not travelling at peak time.
Most of the passengers had been seated towards the front, leaving another first class carriage completely empty. Once we got going, I moved myself into the empty carriage so I could do some filming without bothering anyone.
I’m still fairly new to the filming game. I’m currently in that phase of filming everything but somehow missing the most important bits. There is definitely a knack to this.
The empty carriage did at least give me the chance to alternate sides, which is ideal on the Welsh Highland Railway because the views change constantly. One minute you are looking across open farmland, the next you are passing woodland, rivers, deep valleys or the foothills of Snowdon.
Filming From A Steam Train Window
The Welsh Highland Railway is a brilliant train journey for photography and filming, especially if you enjoy steam trains, mountain scenery and old-school railway details. That said, there are a few obvious rules.
Do not drop your phone out of the window being one of them. We will not be stopping and going back.
That was the gentle advice from my host. I was also warned to be careful of the tunnels, which sounded sensible enough.
At one point, I managed to capture the train entering a tunnel while battling my fear of being decapitated and, more importantly, dropping my phone. What I had not appreciated was the amount of smoke I had allowed back into the first class cabin as it bounced off the tunnel walls.
Awkward moment as my fellow passengers started coughing and splutering through the smoke filled cabin. Whoops!
I made my way back to my seat in an “oops, that wasn’t me” manner, only to realise my hair was full of ash. I’m surprised I didn’t have soot all over my face.
Oh this is good fun!
Looking For Snowdon From The Train
I have a fascination for all things tall and grand, so whenever I could, I tried to find and photograph Snowdon. Guessing which peak is actually Snowdon, or whether you are looking at something that isn’t Snowdon at all, is half the fun.
The top of Snowdon does have a distinct shape, depending on which angle you are looking at it from. One side slopes gently up to the top, while the other side drops away sharply. It’s pointy.
At one point, I put my head out again just as the engine driver pulled the cord and the steam whistle chimed.
I love that sound.
The temptation on a journey like this is to film everything, but the downside is that you can end up missing the journey itself. So I decided to put the camera down and just enjoy the scenery for a while.
Naturally, this was exactly when we passed through a tight gorge with rock sides right next to the train.
A great shot that would have been.
Snowdon Summit looking out from First Class
The Joy Of The First Class Carriage
One of the best parts of travelling first class on the Welsh Highland Railway is the carriage itself. The details are lovely. The polished wood, the windows, the leather straps, the way everything feels solid and properly made.
At one point, I made my way to the carriage door to open the window. There was a leather strap holding it in place, which I undid before releasing the old mechanism and letting the glass drop down into the door.
Could this be any sexier?
I love the Victorians.
With the window down, I leaned out and took in the mountain air as the wind rushed past my face and through my hair. The engine chugged ahead, the carriage rocked gently beneath me, and Snowdonia rolled by in full view. I could have stood there for the entire journey.
As the train passed through the foothills of Snowdon, the landscape started to change. The jagged rocks and mountain views gradually softened into farmland, gentler valleys and rolling hills as we moved towards the coast and Caernarfon.
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Yes, you can see Snowdon from parts of the Welsh Highland Railway route, especially around Rhyd Ddu on a clear day. You may also be able to see the Snowdon Mountain Railway station near the summit.
This is what makes the journey so good. It is not just one view repeated for two hours. The landscape changes with the route.
You see:
• mountain scenery around Snowdonia
• rivers and streams running beside the railway
• ancient woodland and rocky valleys
• open farmland and sheep-filled fields
• views towards Snowdon on a clear day
• the approach into Caernarfon and the coast
Arriving In Caernarfon
As we arrived into Caernarfon, the trainmaster informed me that the return train would be leaving on the return at 2:15pm. There was also a gentle nudge not to be late, because the next train was tomorrow.
Fair point.
I was looking forward to spending some time in Caernarfon, checking out the castle, the town walls, the harbour and the walled town. Caernarfon is one of the best stops on the Welsh Highland Railway because you can step straight off the train and very quickly be among some of the most impressive historic surroundings in North Wales.
The station has also been renovated, which makes the arrival feel smart and welcoming. I left the station and headed towards the far side of Caernarfon Castle. There is a bridge across the river opening where you can get a great shot looking back towards the castle and town walls. Today I was using a combination of my phone and mt SLR camera. To be honest, mainly using my phone camera because it’s so good for documenting trips like this.
One problem, my phone was about to die.
Travel writer rookie mistake number one.
Stay tuned for number two, later.
Exploring Caernarfon: Castle, Town Walls And A Phone Battery Crisis
A dying phone is not ideal when you are trying to write a travel blog, take photos, film a railway journey, find your way around town and still have enough battery left for the return trip. I found a phone shop just off the main square, next to the castle, and the guys in there were great.
They sold me a fully charged portable battery and cable, and knocked a big chunk off without me asking.
The charge lasted 20%.
To be expected, fresh out of the box.
I now had just over 40% battery to last the return journey, which felt less like a solution and more like a tactical power-management exercise.
While walking through Caernarfon, I spotted a rather nice Turkish barber shop. The barbers all had slick bobs, which made me feel this could be good. I settled in, confirmed I had no cash but that bank transfer would be okay on this occasion, and went for it.
“Number two, sir?”
“Yes please. Just tidy the top.”
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Yes, the Welsh Highland Railway is well worth doing if you enjoy scenic train journeys, steam trains, Snowdonia views, Welsh history, heritage railways, or relaxed days out in North Wales. The first class experience adds comfort, character and a proper sense of occasion.
The cut was amazing. With a newly found momentum in my stride, the kind you only get from a fresh trim, I ventured into the walled town.
Caernarfon was bustling and vibrant. A welcome change from some of the not-so-fun-looking towns you can find in Wales. Sorry, but it’s true.
There was an indoor market with craft sellers and homemade produce, and it had a really nice feel to it.
And then came rookie mistake number two.
Always carry cash. Some of these handcrafted sellers don’t make or charge enough to have a card machine and all I had was my phone. I didn’t even have my wallet to which I could go to the cash machine and get cash. The pendants I wanted to buy my daughters were £7 each. I had £6.
I couldn’t even coin flip which daughter would get the goods. I made my excuses and left.
A Pint By The Estuary
After wandering around Caernarfon, I headed to The Anglesey, a pub next to the estuary with a beer garden and a fab outlook. It was busy, but then I spotted a table right next to the water.
Awesome. As I got closer, I realised why this table remained unoccupied amongst the crowds. It was laden with seagull shit. That moment where you either turn back or continue with confidence. I chose to continue, making sure to let the onlookers know I had spotted the poo but was pressing on regardless.
The table stank.
Still, the view was good, and it was a decent place to enjoy a quick pint before heading back to Caernarfon Station for the return Welsh Highland Railway journey to Porthmadog.
Getting Back To The Train
I had left myself what I believed was a healthy 15 minutes to get back to the station. Using Google Maps, I thought this would be a reasonable amount of time.
And it was. But the pressure of knowing that missing the train departure would result in an expensive and rather dull taxi ride back made the walk somewhat hurried.
I got to my seat at 14:11. Four whole minutes to spare. What was I worried about! No problem…
Picnic Basket On The Return Journey
Back on board, it was time for the picnic. There were three first class carriages on the train, and they seemed to fill from the front backwards. Mine was the second carriage, which had been empty earlier in the day but was now filling up with people for the return journey.
My attentive host quietly leaned in and whispered that the third and final first class carriage was still empty, should I wish to move again.
I decided to stay put for the moment and start with the sandwich, still with no idea what was actually inside it. The grand reveal of the picnic basket.
The sandwich turned out to be ham and cheese salad.
No tomatoes.
This was definitely prepared by a sandwich expert.
The foresight to know tomatoes are a nightmare waiting to happen on a hot day should not be underestimated.
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Yes, depending on your ticket and service, you may be able to have a picnic hamper or onboard refreshments. A picnic on the return journey is a very good idea.
As we left Caernarfon and began the return train journey, first class filled with indistinct chatter. There were three generations of the same family enjoying their time on holiday, grand parents, mum, dad, and the kids. I got the impression they had not planned to be on this particular return leg but were excited regardless and werfe enjoying every moment.
That said, no sooner had the clackety-clack started, Dad was asleep. The lunchtime pint of bitter taking over, no doubt.
I feel you, buddy.
I devoured the sandwich and washed it down with a glass of Shiraz.
Oh boy. This is the life!
Pack lunch with red wine. Nicely nicely…
Back Through Snowdonia
The return journey is, obviously, the outward journey in reverse. It starts with a gentle ascent past farmland, babbling brooks and crystal-clear water shimmering as it rushes towards the sea. Then, gradually, you return towards the mountains. I found myself waiting in anticipation to enter the Snowdonia scenery again.
I’m in my mid-forties with kids of my own. Two daughters in fact, now teenagers. This train journey made me feel like a kid again.
I love this.
By this point, Mum had joined Dad and both were sparked out. I let out a wry smile. Been there, guys. Enjoy your sleep.
Next up in the picnic basket was Bara Brith, which required a quick look-up on ChatGPT to confirm exactly what I was dealing with. Welsh teacake, apparently. I should know this, having lived in Wales and brought my children up here, but it could have been some strange variation I thought.
It looked like teacake, with its copious amount of raisins. I’m not one for raisins in cake. It’s a texture thing. I can take out a box of Californians, a school lunchbox staple from the 80s, but put those little fellas in a cake. No can do.
But the power of the occasion always wins in my world. I buttered it, composed myself and munched it down.
Flavour: 10.
Texture: 1.
Rhyd Ddu And Snowdon Views
As we continued through Snowdonia, we stopped at Rhyd Ddu.
Pronounce that one!
We had stopped here on the way out too. It is where the two Welsh Highland Railway trains pass each other, going in opposite directions. What I had not noticed in the morning was that Snowdon is in full view from here on a clear day. You can even see the Snowdon Mountain Railway station at the summit.
It was a beautiful sunny day, and this section of the journey was one of the highlights. The final part of the route gave me views of the river running through a small canyon, with people walking alongside the rocks, finding places to stop, dip their feet and have a picnic. It resembled something out of Canada. A mini version. Pocket-sized.
Everybody waved as the train passed, which is one of the lovely things about steam railways. They still make people stop, smile and look up from whatever they were doing. There is something about the sound, the smoke, the carriages and the sense of history that pulls people in.
It reminds you that these old railways are not just attractions. They are part of our past, and although life moves on quickly, we do still appreciate where we have come from. Most of the time.
Is The Welsh Highland Railway Worth It?
The occasion got the better of me and I did find myself having a snooze. As we approached Porthmadog Harbour Station, back where it all started that morning, I had 5% battery remaining. Not the most interesting way to finish an article, but accurate.
Looking back towards the mountain range, now surrounded by the flats of the estuary, I was genuinely pleased I had been able to experience it.
So, is the Welsh Highland Railway worth it?
Yes. Absolutely.
I cannot recommend the Welsh Highland Railway first class steam train journey highly enough. Whether you are travelling on your own, with your partner, kids, or with a small group of friends, it is a brilliant way to experience Snowdonia and North Wales at a slower pace.
There is an air of sophistication about the trip. It is probably something you appreciate even more as you move into your senior years, but that is not to say younger travellers would not enjoy it.
Would I have done this in my 20s? I’d have to think about it.
My eldest daughter in her mid-teens would definitely enjoy a day like this with the old man.
For anyone searching for things to do in Snowdonia, scenic train journeys in Wales, steam train trips in North Wales, heritage railways near Porthmadog, or a day trip from Porthmadog to Caernarfon, the Welsh Highland Railway should be very high on the list.
It is not just about the train. It is the breakfast, the carriage, the whistle, the mountains, the castle, the walled town, the picnic, the people watching on, and the simple pleasure of slowing down for a day.
Tomorrow, I am going up Snowdon on the train. I’m doing a research trip for Ultimate Driving Adventures Wales Grand Tour later this month. I’ve been invited by Vince, who runs the Snowdon Mountain Railway, and he is keen to show me the improvements and investment the station has had over the last 12 months.
I’m particularly looking forward to the cinema, a new attraction for this year, and the improvements to the platform and gift shop.
Quick Tips For The Welsh Highland Railway
If you are planning a Welsh Highland Railway first class journey, a few simple things are worth knowing:
• Arrive early at Porthmadog Harbour Station so you have time to park, check in and get breakfast.
• Use the overflow car park unless you have a blue badge.
• Spooner’s Café is a good place for breakfast before the train.
• First class is worth considering if you want a more comfortable and special experience.
• Ask the onboard team which side has the best views.
• Keep hold of your phone if filming from the window.
• Be careful near tunnels.
• Charge your phone so you are able to take lots of photos and videos.
• Take some cash for Caernarfon’s market and independent sellers.
• Do not leave it too late getting back to the return train.
• Make time to explore Caernarfon Castle and the walled town.
• Look out for Snowdon around Rhyd Ddu on a clear day.
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The Welsh Highland Railway runs between Porthmadog and Caernarfon in North Wales, passing through Snowdonia, mountain scenery, valleys, rivers, farmland, woodland and small Welsh villages.
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Yes, the Welsh Highland Railway works very well as a full day trip. You can start at Porthmadog, travel to Caernarfon, spend time exploring the castle and town, then return by train later in the day.
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First class is worth it if you want a more comfortable and elegant steam train experience. The carriages are beautifully finished, the seats are comfortable, and the journey feels more special.
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Both sides have excellent views, but the left-hand side is often recommended for both the outward and return journeys. If the carriage is quiet, you may be able to move around and enjoy both sides.
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Caernarfon is ideal for a short visit. You can see Caernarfon Castle, walk around the town walls, explore the indoor market, visit independent shops, have a drink by the estuary, or simply enjoy the town before heading back to the station.
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A few hours is enough to see the castle area, walk through the walled town, visit the market, have a drink and get back to the train. Just do not leave it too late. The next train may be tomorrow.
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Yes, it is a great experience for couples. It is relaxed, scenic, comfortable and has enough sense of occasion to feel like a proper day out.
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Yes, it works very well as a solo travel experience. You can take photos, film the journey, enjoy the scenery, have a picnic and explore Caernarfon at your own pace.
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Yes, especially in first class. It is comfortable, relaxed, scenic and does not require lots of walking unless you choose to explore Caernarfon in more detail.
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Yes. It is worth taking some cash, especially if you plan to buy from small craft stalls or independent sellers. Not everyone has a card machine.
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Yes, depending on your ticket and service, you may be able to have a picnic hamper or onboard refreshments. A picnic on the return journey is a very good idea.
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Take your ticket, phone, camera, charger or power bank, a bit of cash, and something warm if you plan to stand near open windows. If you are filming from the carriage, hold onto your phone.
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Rhyd Ddu is one of the stops on the Welsh Highland Railway. It is also where trains travelling in opposite directions can pass each other. On a clear day, it offers great views towards Snowdon.
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Bara Brith is a traditional Welsh fruit loaf or teacake, usually served sliced and buttered. It is very Welsh. It also contains raisins, so make of that what you will.
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Yes, it is one of the best things to do in Snowdonia if you want to see the landscape without hiking. It gives you mountain scenery, steam train character, Welsh history and a proper North Wales day out.
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